After a light breakfast (break, butter and coca tea) we set off yesterday at 7.30am. On the way we collected Ronnie, and Walter, the husband of Arlen (one of Roxy's sisters). Walter knows the Colca Canyon well, and is our guide. Also, he has not been able to find work recently, so this was a way of Anthony helping him out too.We soon started climbing out of Arequipa. The landscape is always pretty barren, but soon it was very barren. Just cacti and boulders everywhere - set against a pale gray/brown soil. But the mountains loom all around impressively. Soon we were at 3000 metres, where the land changes again - lots of grasses ("la pampa") make the place more attractive.
After about 2 hours, we had skirted around Misti, and then huge high level plateaus opened up. Here and there groups of Llamas, Alpacas and Vicunas wandered about. We took photos of course! Getting out at about 3500m you feel a bit dizzy and breathless, so you have to go slowly. But it was beautiful. Silence... total silence. The air is clean and fresh - a very nice change from Arequipa's dusty air. All along the way we chat (mostly in Spanish) about Peru, England, Church, Pachecuti, Incas, etc...
After a brief stop at a cafe (at the junction of 2 roads, but otherwise in the middle of nowhere) for coca tea, before the climb to the summit of the road. At every stop there are the usual groups of Peruvian ladies, in traditional dress, all selling Peruvian stuff. As soon as you look at a stall, they begin showing you things, hoping you will be one of their few customers for the day. All the products are nice quality - and reasonably priced, but I can't keep buying presents!
The other thing you notice is the temperature. It's cold. In Arequipa, you feel warm and only need a t-shirt. But here, I have a t-shirt, long-sleeved shirt and fleece jacket, and I still feel the cold.
Eventually we arrive at the summit of the road, 4800m. Wow! The vista is amazing, as you can see the 7 major volcanoes in the central Andes (including Misti). But just as amazing is the lack of air! Just standing up needs a bit more concentration and I have a slight headache. I'm glad when we make the rapid descent into Chivay, along a road that can only be described as "serpentine!" It clings to the mountain like a snake, and winds its way into the small town at the beginning of the Colca Canyon. I don't like some of those drops!
We unpack at the Hostel de David. It's basic, but cheap (£4 per person) and apparently you can find it in the Lonely Planet Guides!! We all feel sleepy (altitude again) so decide to have a nap for an hour.
Then it's off to the local attraction - the thermal springs (buying a cheap pair of shorts on the way, as I didn't bring any!) These springs are not at all how i imagined. They are several open air swimming pools, just like you would see in the UK (albiet a bit more basic), and they are filled directly from the volcanic waters that emerge from the base of the mountains. We relax there for about 2 hours, watching the tourists "zip-lining" across the canyon (most of the screaming as they do so). The picture of the pools gives some idea of the canyon's size; probably 2 or 300 metres across. We suggest Anthony could try it, but we all agree that living is a better option than jumping into the abyss on a tiny wire.
The evening wears on and after a light meal at a restaurante, we wander through the plaza. It's dark, and very cold (if i stand still, i start to shiver) but people are everywhere. Lots of dear old Peruvian ladies huddle over stoves, cooking a very nice punch (non-alcoholic). We listen to the loudspeakers in the plaza - the local Catholic church service is going on and all the prayers are relayed into the centre of town. It's all very depressing - prayers to Mary or St. John, because apparently Jesus is a bit too important for mere mortals to speak to directly. But the place is busy and folks come in and out as we watch, sipping our punch and freezing.
Time for bed! Ant and I are sharing a room - good job I'm not a Conservative Politician! Our beds each have a sheet, a thick blanket and then a spread too. But I sleep in most of my clothes and just about keep warm by putting my fleece and towel on top of me as well. I also wear my hat!! It's not very comfy. Then the band starts playing - and then the fireworks - and later some kids kicking tin cans around - and then somebody wants to get into the hostel at 1am but has lost his keys... the night wears on, but eventually I nod off...
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